how to make hybrids.... long!!

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Posted by Dwight Good on October 20, 2001 at 18:52:31:

In Reply to: Dwight????? posted by JY on October 20, 2001 at 10:22:36:

This is an excerpt from an online article I am working on:

Colubrid hybridization � process and notes

This article will describe the method I have used to successfully hybridize colubrid snakes in captivity. It is based on my own breedings and observations.

How to hybridize

Most snakes will not hybridize on their own. Of course there are exceptions, but in many cases to successfully cross different genera or species the specimens involved will have to be tricked into breeding. For best results a pair of each type of snake that is to be hybridized should be obtained. Although this is not always necessary, having a pair of each does make the process a bit easier and helps to ensure success. Also if the hybridization attempt fails, they may still be bred to each other. These animals should be prepared for breeding with normal colubrid reproductive cycling. This is usually accomplished by a few months of winter cooling, and then a brief warm up period in early spring. After the animals have resumed feeding and have completed a post brumation shed cycle, most will be ready for reproductive attempts. The cycling process is described in more detail in most of the popular pet store books and also online.

Once the animals have been correctly cycled, you may begin to concentrate on hybridizing them. The first thing to do is to introduce the individual snakes of each pair of same type animals to each other. The purpose of this introduction is to make sure that both animals to be hybridized are ready for breeding. For example, if my goal is to breed a corn snake to a king snake, first I will introduce corn to corn and king to king. I allow both pairs to court heavily but I prevent either male from actually breeding a female. Male courtship is typically displayed with the male rubbing his chin along the female�s back and crawling on top of her. If she flees, he will usually chase her around the cage. If she is receptive and does not flee, he will continue his courtship with twitching motions and a rippling of his belly muscles along her back. The height of his courtship will result in several tail search copulatory attempts. The male will run his tail beneath hers and with a sliding forward or rearward motion, attempt to insert a hemipenis into her cloaca. Don�t allow him to actually breed at this point. Once I deduce that both members of my prospective hybrid pairing are ready, then I will attempt hybridization. With the male that I wish to use still in a breeding frenzy, I remove the female of his own type that he is trying to breed, and I drape him across the intended female of another species/genera. Once the male is �in position� on top of the female, I observe his actions for a moment in order to determine if any further manipulation is in order. If the male resumes his courtship activity with the new female, then successful hybridization is usually not a problem. Sometimes the male will pay no mind to the switch and will achieve copulation without missing a beat. However, further enticement will usually be necessary to coerce him into breeding the new female. This is where the process becomes tricky and sometimes very frustrating. Patience is a must. It can be difficult to keep the male in position on the desired female while at the same time enticing him to court her. Often this can be successfully accomplished by placing the female of his own kind in one hand and positioning her in front of the male while he is in contact with the other female. In my experience, this is usually enough to convince him to begin courting. Copulation usually ensues providing the desired female remains in place and is receptive to his advances. Sometimes conditions will not be right and numerous attempts will be necessary. The key to success is persistence and of course patience. Keep in mind that nothing is guaranteed, as certain animals simply refuse to hybridize while others will do so with minimal assistance.

Other notes

There are a few other points to consider while hybridizing. For one thing, keep in mind that some colubrids are ophiophagic and will normally eat other snakes if given the chance. When crossbreeding known snake eaters to other colubrids, it is extremely important to keep an eye on the animals while they are together for breeding. I usually make sure that I feed ophiophagic animals just prior to introduction in order to help minimize the chances of them attacking their intended mates. Also, don�t assume that once the snakes are �locked up� the risk of one eating the other is nonexistent. For example, if a female king being bred by a male corn suddenly decided to turn and have him for lunch while his hemipenes were in use, both animals could potentially suffer reproductive damage from the thrashing that would ensue. Keep a close watch when hybridizing kings or other ophiophagic colubrids.

Hybrid breedings

Spring 2000

I bred a male snow corn, Elaphe guttata guttata, to a female black king snake, Lampropeltis getula niger. The resulting 8 offspring were virtually identical in color and pattern. They hatched with a pale yellow background and black blotches. As they grew the background acquired even more yellow and the blotches took on a brownish shade.

This same year I also bred a male albino Ruthven�s king snake, Lampropeltis ruthveni, to a female greybanded king snake, Lampropeltis alterna. Copulation was achieved on two occasions, but no eggs were produced by the female.

Spring 2001

A male snow corn, Elaphe guttata guttata, was bred to three females:

Black kingsnake, Lampropeltis getula niger, all eggs were infertile.

Speckled king snake, Lampropeltis getula holbrooki, 3 fertile eggs.

Prairie king snake, Lampropeltis calligaster calligaster, 1 fertile egg.

Poor fertility by the male snow corn was attributed to excessive cage temperatures during pre-breeding warm up period.

This is the rough draft of my article, hope it was helpful!!

Take care,
Dwight Good

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: This is an excerpt from an online article I am working on: : Colubrid hybridization � process and notes : This article will describe the method I have used to successfully hybridize colubrid snakes in captivity. It is based on my own breedings and observations. : How to hybridize : Most snakes will not hybridize on their own. Of course there are exceptions, but in many cases to successfully cross different genera or species the specimens involved will have to be tricked into breeding. For best results a pair of each type of snake that is to be hybridized should be obtained. Although this is not always necessary, having a pair of each does make the process a bit easier and helps to ensure success. Also if the hybridization attempt fails, they may still be bred to each other. These animals should be prepared for breeding with normal colubrid reproductive cycling. This is usually accomplished by a few months of winter cooling, and then a brief warm up period in early spring. After the animals have resumed feeding and have completed a post brumation shed cycle, most will be ready for reproductive attempts. The cycling process is described in more detail in most of the popular pet store books and also online. : Once the animals have been correctly cycled, you may begin to concentrate on hybridizing them. The first thing to do is to introduce the individual snakes of each pair of same type animals to each other. The purpose of this introduction is to make sure that both animals to be hybridized are ready for breeding. For example, if my goal is to breed a corn snake to a king snake, first I will introduce corn to corn and king to king. I allow both pairs to court heavily but I prevent either male from actually breeding a female. Male courtship is typically displayed with the male rubbing his chin along the female�s back and crawling on top of her. If she flees, he will usually chase her around the cage. If she is receptive and does not flee, he will continue his courtship with twitching motions and a rippling of his belly muscles along her back. The height of his courtship will result in several tail search copulatory attempts. The male will run his tail beneath hers and with a sliding forward or rearward motion, attempt to insert a hemipenis into her cloaca. Don�t allow him to actually breed at this point. Once I deduce that both members of my prospective hybrid pairing are ready, then I will attempt hybridization. With the male that I wish to use still in a breeding frenzy, I remove the female of his own type that he is trying to breed, and I drape him across the intended female of another species/genera. Once the male is �in position� on top of the female, I observe his actions for a moment in order to determine if any further manipulation is in order. If the male resumes his courtship activity with the new female, then successful hybridization is usually not a problem. Sometimes the male will pay no mind to the switch and will achieve copulation without missing a beat. However, further enticement will usually be necessary to coerce him into breeding the new female. This is where the process becomes tricky and sometimes very frustrating. Patience is a must. It can be difficult to keep the male in position on the desired female while at the same time enticing him to court her. Often this can be successfully accomplished by placing the female of his own kind in one hand and positioning her in front of the male while he is in contact with the other female. In my experience, this is usually enough to convince him to begin courting. Copulation usually ensues providing the desired female remains in place and is receptive to his advances. Sometimes conditions will not be right and numerous attempts will be necessary. The key to success is persistence and of course patience. Keep in mind that nothing is guaranteed, as certain animals simply refuse to hybridize while others will do so with minimal assistance. : Other notes : There are a few other points to consider while hybridizing. For one thing, keep in mind that some colubrids are ophiophagic and will normally eat other snakes if given the chance. When crossbreeding known snake eaters to other colubrids, it is extremely important to keep an eye on the animals while they are together for breeding. I usually make sure that I feed ophiophagic animals just prior to introduction in order to help minimize the chances of them attacking their intended mates. Also, don�t assume that once the snakes are �locked up� the risk of one eating the other is nonexistent. For example, if a female king being bred by a male corn suddenly decided to turn and have him for lunch while his hemipenes were in use, both animals could potentially suffer reproductive damage from the thrashing that would ensue. Keep a close watch when hybridizing kings or other ophiophagic colubrids. : Hybrid breedings : Spring 2000 : I bred a male snow corn, Elaphe guttata guttata, to a female black king snake, Lampropeltis getula niger. The resulting 8 offspring were virtually identical in color and pattern. They hatched with a pale yellow background and black blotches. As they grew the background acquired even more yellow and the blotches took on a brownish shade. : This same year I also bred a male albino Ruthven�s king snake, Lampropeltis ruthveni, to a female greybanded king snake, Lampropeltis alterna. Copulation was achieved on two occasions, but no eggs were produced by the female. : Spring 2001 : A male snow corn, Elaphe guttata guttata, was bred to three females: : Black kingsnake, Lampropeltis getula niger, all eggs were infertile. : Speckled king snake, Lampropeltis getula holbrooki, 3 fertile eggs. : Prairie king snake, Lampropeltis calligaster calligaster, 1 fertile egg. : Poor fertility by the male snow corn was attributed to excessive cage temperatures during pre-breeding warm up period. : This is the rough draft of my article, hope it was helpful!! : Take care, : Dwight Good

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