Fwd: Humidity

[ Follow Ups ] [ Post Followup ] [ The Iguana & Water Dragon Forum ] [ FAQ ]

Posted by Alta on May 06, 1999 at 23:52:20:

Someone asked me a question about humidity, and I said I'd forward them a post Adam Britton made to the IML. I realized afterward that more than one person might be interested, so I'm forwarding it here instead of via email. (This is with Adam's permission, of course.)

From: "Adam Britton"
To:
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 13:20:53 +0930
Subject: [IguanaMail] Re: Update on urate crystals

From: "Adam Britton"

From: Marie Eguro
Subject: [IguanaMail] Re: Update on urate crystals

> Try feeding more fruit or if your iguana likes bread, water soaked bread.

Also, veggies like cucumber are almost entirely water and can be excellent
for increasing water content in the ingested food if you mix some in with
the regular diet. Really, though, the only longterm solution is to greatly
increase atmospheric humidity. You should be aiming for at least 80%
humidity, and even that can be hard to achieve. Here's a post which I sent
to ICQ-Iguanas a while back when someone asked for ways of increasing
humidity levels. It's not all encompassing, but it should get your mind
working along the right lines.

>>>
It can be very difficult to maintain a high humidity, but it might not be
essential year-round. Iguanas come from areas which have distinct dry and
wet seasons, the humidity being higher in the wet season but really far
lower in the dry. So, for at least 6 months of the year, humidity levels
around 60 to 70% are probably reasonable. For the rest of the time, however,
higher levels are definitely desirable.

Why is humidity important? If there isn't enough water in the atmosphere,
several things can happen. When the iguana takes a breath of air, the water
content in the inspired air will be very low. This causes water to evaporate
from the iguana's warm respiratory membranes into the air which is lost when
the iguana breathes out again. So, if humidity is too low, the iguana
continually loses a lot of water simply by breathing. The higher the
humidity, the less water is lost through breathing. Water is also lost
through the skin, although this process is much slower because reptile skin
is relatively (but not totally) impermeable to water. A dehydrated iguana is
definitely bad news. Lack of water means concentration of the body fluids,
such as blood. This gives the kidneys a much harder task at filtering
harmful waste products out of the blood. In the end, dehydration can be a
major cause of kidney failure, especially if the diet is putting an
excessive load on kidneys in the first place (e.g. too much protein).

How do you increase the humidity? There are several solutions to raise
humidity:

1. You can use a spray bottle. Water from the spray eventually evaporates
due to the heat in the enclosure, which increases the humidity. The more
frequently you spray, the higher the humidity.

2. Use a large water bath. Most people give their iguanas a water bowl, but
it's far better to give them a water bath (perhaps in addition to a water
bowl). Iguanas will often soak themselves in water - they do this in the
wild, although usually they have a stream or river available. If the surface
area of the water bowl is large (i.e. a big bowl) then you'll get more
evaporation and hence higher humidity. This is obviously easier in larger
enclosures. You can also use a heater under the water bath, or a submersible
heater to warm the water - this will increase levels of evaporation. Be
*very careful* if you do this - the water shouldn't get warmer than about 36
celsius (96 F), and submersible heaters do get very hot and need completely
shielding from the iguana. Heat pads under the bowl should be treated with
extreme caution - they they get wet and short out, it can be very dangerous.
Normally, the water will reach air temperature eventually - heaters just
assist this process (especially if the floor of the enclosure is only around
80 celsius). One problem with a water bath is that the iguana will often
poop in the water. This can be a problem to clean if the bowl is large and
heavy, but there are solutions.

3. Use a waterfall system. Now, this is getting ambitious! Running water
within an enclosure, especially if it runs down broad surfaces, will
definitely evaporate and add humidity to the environment. Commercial systems
are probably the best bet, although to be honest I think they're overkill
for most people. Spray bottles and water bowls work pretty well.

4. Use a humidifier. If the enclosure is large enough, you can fit one of
these inside there to rapidly increase humidity - as long as it's protected
from the iguana. Alternatively, you can use one if the iguana's room
(especially for free-roaming iguanas). They are not particularly cheap to
run, but they do work.

5. Decrease ventilation. No, this is not necessarily a good idea, but I have
to mention it so that someone doesn't try to go too far! In an open
enclosure, the air inside the enclosure will rapidly be replaced by air
outside. If the air outside has a low humidity, then the enclosure will lose
humidity very rapidly. At the other extreme, if you have a sealed box,
humidity will increase very rapidly if there is a source of evaporative
water but no ventilation. Remember, ventilation is *very important* for an
iguana - it needs a fresh supply of air and oxygen. However, too much
ventilation (e.g. no walls or door) will simply ensure the humidity levels
fall too quickly. Plus, heat will be rapidly lost. So, you have to strike a
balance. However, it is much better to err on the side of caution by giving
the iguana a bit too much ventilation rather than too little.

6. Soak your iguana. Ok, this doesn't increase humidity, but it is good for
your iguana's skin, plus the iguana has the opportunity to drink.

7. Spray the iguana's food with water. Again, this doesn't increase
humidity, but it does increase water content in the food which your iguana
can ingest. Iguanas' get most of their water from their diet, or by drinking
standing water.

Problems with humidity: Very high humidity can actually be a problem.
Bacteria and fungi grow far more readibly if it's nice and damp everywhere.
An iguana's enclosure is a prime breeding ground for bacteria - hot, damp,
and with reduced ventilation. This is bad for your iguana, and bad for
you... plus everything will start to rot and go mouldy. This is why I think
it's better to keep humidity between 80 and 90% rather than any higher where
serious problems can develop if you're not careful.

--
Dr. Adam Britton | abritton@crocodilian.com
Crocodile Research | http://crocodilian.com
Zoologist

------------------------------------------------------------------------
Are you hogging all the fun?
http://www.ONElist.com
Friends tell friends about ONElist!
------------------------------------------------------------------------
If you don't want a 7 ft. sofa, don't get one.
If you don't want a 6 ft. lizard, don't get an iguana.
-- Melissa Kaplan

Iguanas Mailing List http://www.sonic.net/melissk/igmail.html

Follow Ups:

Re: Fwd: Humidity cirsisue 5/07/99 (0)

Post a Followup

Name:
E-Mail:

Subject:

Comments:
: Someone asked me a question about humidity, and I said I'd forward them a post Adam Britton made to the IML. I realized afterward that more than one person might be interested, so I'm forwarding it here instead of via email. (This is with Adam's permission, of course.) : From: "Adam Britton" <abritton@crocodilian.com> : To: <IguanaMail@onelist.com> : Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 13:20:53 +0930 : Subject: [IguanaMail] Re: Update on urate crystals : From: "Adam Britton" <abritton@crocodilian.com> : From: Marie Eguro <m_eguro@ix.netcom.com> : Subject: [IguanaMail] Re: Update on urate crystals : : > Try feeding more fruit or if your iguana likes bread, water soaked bread. : : Also, veggies like cucumber are almost entirely water and can be excellent : for increasing water content in the ingested food if you mix some in with : the regular diet. Really, though, the only longterm solution is to greatly : increase atmospheric humidity. You should be aiming for at least 80% : humidity, and even that can be hard to achieve. Here's a post which I sent : to ICQ-Iguanas a while back when someone asked for ways of increasing : humidity levels. It's not all encompassing, but it should get your mind : working along the right lines. : >>> : It can be very difficult to maintain a high humidity, but it might not be : essential year-round. Iguanas come from areas which have distinct dry and : wet seasons, the humidity being higher in the wet season but really far : lower in the dry. So, for at least 6 months of the year, humidity levels : around 60 to 70% are probably reasonable. For the rest of the time, however, : higher levels are definitely desirable. : Why is humidity important? If there isn't enough water in the atmosphere, : several things can happen. When the iguana takes a breath of air, the water : content in the inspired air will be very low. This causes water to evaporate : from the iguana's warm respiratory membranes into the air which is lost when : the iguana breathes out again. So, if humidity is too low, the iguana : continually loses a lot of water simply by breathing. The higher the : humidity, the less water is lost through breathing. Water is also lost : through the skin, although this process is much slower because reptile skin : is relatively (but not totally) impermeable to water. A dehydrated iguana is : definitely bad news. Lack of water means concentration of the body fluids, : such as blood. This gives the kidneys a much harder task at filtering : harmful waste products out of the blood. In the end, dehydration can be a : major cause of kidney failure, especially if the diet is putting an : excessive load on kidneys in the first place (e.g. too much protein). : How do you increase the humidity? There are several solutions to raise : humidity: : 1. You can use a spray bottle. Water from the spray eventually evaporates : due to the heat in the enclosure, which increases the humidity. The more : frequently you spray, the higher the humidity. : 2. Use a large water bath. Most people give their iguanas a water bowl, but : it's far better to give them a water bath (perhaps in addition to a water : bowl). Iguanas will often soak themselves in water - they do this in the : wild, although usually they have a stream or river available. If the surface : area of the water bowl is large (i.e. a big bowl) then you'll get more : evaporation and hence higher humidity. This is obviously easier in larger : enclosures. You can also use a heater under the water bath, or a submersible : heater to warm the water - this will increase levels of evaporation. Be : *very careful* if you do this - the water shouldn't get warmer than about 36 : celsius (96 F), and submersible heaters do get very hot and need completely : shielding from the iguana. Heat pads under the bowl should be treated with : extreme caution - they they get wet and short out, it can be very dangerous. : Normally, the water will reach air temperature eventually - heaters just : assist this process (especially if the floor of the enclosure is only around : 80 celsius). One problem with a water bath is that the iguana will often : poop in the water. This can be a problem to clean if the bowl is large and : heavy, but there are solutions. : 3. Use a waterfall system. Now, this is getting ambitious! Running water : within an enclosure, especially if it runs down broad surfaces, will : definitely evaporate and add humidity to the environment. Commercial systems : are probably the best bet, although to be honest I think they're overkill : for most people. Spray bottles and water bowls work pretty well. : 4. Use a humidifier. If the enclosure is large enough, you can fit one of : these inside there to rapidly increase humidity - as long as it's protected : from the iguana. Alternatively, you can use one if the iguana's room : (especially for free-roaming iguanas). They are not particularly cheap to : run, but they do work. : 5. Decrease ventilation. No, this is not necessarily a good idea, but I have : to mention it so that someone doesn't try to go too far! In an open : enclosure, the air inside the enclosure will rapidly be replaced by air : outside. If the air outside has a low humidity, then the enclosure will lose : humidity very rapidly. At the other extreme, if you have a sealed box, : humidity will increase very rapidly if there is a source of evaporative : water but no ventilation. Remember, ventilation is *very important* for an : iguana - it needs a fresh supply of air and oxygen. However, too much : ventilation (e.g. no walls or door) will simply ensure the humidity levels : fall too quickly. Plus, heat will be rapidly lost. So, you have to strike a : balance. However, it is much better to err on the side of caution by giving : the iguana a bit too much ventilation rather than too little. : 6. Soak your iguana. Ok, this doesn't increase humidity, but it is good for : your iguana's skin, plus the iguana has the opportunity to drink. : 7. Spray the iguana's food with water. Again, this doesn't increase : humidity, but it does increase water content in the food which your iguana : can ingest. Iguanas' get most of their water from their diet, or by drinking : standing water. : Problems with humidity: Very high humidity can actually be a problem. : Bacteria and fungi grow far more readibly if it's nice and damp everywhere. : An iguana's enclosure is a prime breeding ground for bacteria - hot, damp, : and with reduced ventilation. This is bad for your iguana, and bad for : you... plus everything will start to rot and go mouldy. This is why I think : it's better to keep humidity between 80 and 90% rather than any higher where : serious problems can develop if you're not careful. : -- : Dr. Adam Britton | abritton@crocodilian.com : Crocodile Research | http://crocodilian.com : Zoologist : : ------------------------------------------------------------------------ : Are you hogging all the fun? : http://www.ONElist.com : Friends tell friends about ONElist! : ------------------------------------------------------------------------ : If you don't want a 7 ft. sofa, don't get one. : If you don't want a 6 ft. lizard, don't get an iguana. : -- Melissa Kaplan : Iguanas Mailing List http://www.sonic.net/melissk/igmail.html

Optional Link URL:
Link Title:
Optional Image URL:

[ Follow Ups ] [ Post Followup ] [ The Iguana & Water Dragon Forum ] [ FAQ ]