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LOOONG RESPONSE...... lol...you need to ask only a few ?'s at a time! :)


[ Follow Ups ] [ Post Followup ] [ The Iguana Forum ]

Posted by xta on June 16, 2002 at 12:36:10:

In Reply to: Considering Adopting First Iguana (long) posted by Wendy on June 15, 2002 at 15:12:02:



Untitled Document


I have heard that iguanas seem to get along better with
humans of the opposite sex. Is this true? What are your experiences with this?


I don’t believe this is true as I know several cases
where this theory would be proven wrong. A male and female each has its own
set of problems (breeding aggression / egg binding, respectfully). I have chosen
males, myself, for the same reason you mentioned, although there are females
out there that are too sweet to overlook. If you have the opportunity to visit
or speak extensively with your chosen rescuer, choose the iguana that has a
good personality! The rescuer should be able to help you choose one that will
be most compatible.


Do you think it would be better for me to get an animal who was neglected,
but without any major health concerns such as kidney problems? I want to be
able to limit myself to an animal who isn’t severely sick for the betterment
of the animal while it recovers as well as to avoid major vet bills that my
parents would have to pay the majority of.


I don’t think it is a bad idea to get a healthy
animal. Many times rescuers nurse an animal back to health before adopting it
out. (strangely enough, I think you always bond faster with a sick animal) Unfortunately,
many times you cannot know the entire history of the iguana. You can judge the
iguana on basic looks, but it may have had an improper diet, or lighting etc.
I wouldn’t rule out getting an iguana that is making a good recovery from
MBD or has missing toes or a tail. Igs are pretty hardy and can live a good
life once they finally receive proper care. My best iguana was my rescue that
had severe hot rock burns and a disease that left some damaged scales all over
his tail. He grew to be quite handsome and sweet. I loved him dearly. Basically,
what I am saying is don’t get an iguana that is on death’s doorstep
or is an extreme special needs iguana (like blind or paralyzed) but don’t
rule out simple problems or deformities.


Do you recommend Repti-Sun or Zoomed more? Are there other lights that are
better than these?


The 3 lights that are most used on the forums around
here are the Zoomed 5.0 (Iguana or Reptisun) tube light, the Zoomed Powersun
bulb, and the Active UV bulb. The Zoomed 5.0 gives off no heat, needs to be
changed every 6 months, doesn’t give off as much UV as the other 2, must
be at least 12” or less from the favored basking spot, and is about $20
online. The Powersun and the Active UV lights do give off heat, last over 1
year, have much stronger UV light, must be placed MORE than 6” away, and
cost over $50. I have used both types and still use the Zoomed 5.0 for my bearded
dragon’s cage since he gets more natural sunlight and I cannot meet the
distance requirements for the other bulbs. I switched to the Active UV light
for my iguana since he only likes to bask inside and his cage was more appropriate
for the stronger light.


I hear about the lighting schedule, day vs. night lights. What exactly are
night-lights? Are they just heat lights that don’t give off light? What
brands do you recommend for night-lights?


I like the ceramic bulbs that give off no light for the
night. They are more expensive but last a long time. Iguana need to be kept
warm but need to be in the dark when they sleep. I think I have a Zoomed ceramic
bulb but I suppose any kind would do.


What about the hip harnesses? I’ve heard that a thrashing iguana can damage
limbs in these types of harnesses, but wouldn’t it be better to have a
harness on him just in case he was to get out of my arms? I don’t intend
on letting him walk around with the harness on or anything, I just want to have
it as a precaution. Is that a bad idea?


I wrestle with this same question. Friends here say the
hip harnesses work great, but I have yet to try this….they look kind of
flimsy if you have a very crazy iguana like mine. My last iguana could be taken
outside with supervision and no restraints but he was very calm (and I kept
him on top of park tables where he basked and felt more safe). Sleestack is
terrified of the outdoors and I have yet to find a real solution for him. You
have to be very careful and judge it on the personality of your iguana. They
like to gator roll. I suggest always keeping him up high where he is less likely
to feel threatened. Another option is to build a large outdoor enclosure so
he can have some natural sun. I am debating this, but mine is so neurotic and
tends to nose-rub, I’m wondering if I would be wasting my money. We’ll
see.


As far as caging goes my Dad would be willing to help me build one. I decided
that the best place for the cage would be in my dining room; the iguana would
be able to watch people work in the kitchen and people would frequently walk
by the cage. Is that stressful or entertaining for the iguana? The biggest dimensions
for a cage that will fit in that room are 8.5 x 5 x 7.5 feet. Is this okay?
Should I go bigger? I can’t go longer, but I could go wider. How many basking
areas would be required for a cage of that size? I’d like to give him a
good variety of places where he can go to bask, is four enough? Are the bulbs
supposed to be outside the cage? Or could I just put some sort of mesh box around
it so that the iguana could not burn himself on the bulb?


Your cage sounds great. Interaction is good to keep the
iguana tame. I would put the bulbs on top of the cage….and you major basking
areas near the top. The rest of the cage can be climbing/ fun areas and cooler
areas. The iguana will almost always prefer to be at the very top of the cage.


My dad is partial to using a metal frame (which he wants me to weld), is
this okay? Or is PVC piping a better idea? What kind of mesh do you recommend
to use?


I suppose if the metal doesn’t rust it would be
fine. Use a metal hardware cloth on the top where the lights sit. If you decide
to go with mesh on the rest instead of wood, melamine, or plexiglass, then I
would use the rubber coated metal or plastic mesh which is kinder to rubbing
noses.



Humidity must be hard to keep at a high enough level with a mesh cage, a
humidifier isn’t an option, but I could make drip systems to keep the humidity
up.


A humidifier would be best. If not, you can have a large
container of water—and maybe rig a drip system to go into that and onto
some of the fake plants. If your cage is metal…I would worry about rust
though. Also, spray him a couple times per day and give him a warm bath.



I know that by keeping live plants in the enclosure the humidity would stay
higher, are there any kinds of really tough plants you can recommend that would
be able to take the beating of a large iguana?


Fake plant are the only ones that will hold up…
just make sure they are one piece and the leaves aren’t pulled off easily.



Would it be a big deal if our together morning time came half an hour later?


No.



I’ve read that iguana’s typically like to feed at around 10AM,
should I wait until right before I leave for school to put the salad out? Or
is it okay to feed earlier in the morning if the iguana wants to eat then?


I leave my iguana a couple bowls of salad in the morning
(7:30am) which he starts eating almost immediately and munches on throughout
the day. Then, I give him another after his nightly poop/bath which he inhales
quickly, but sometimes leaves a couple bites to munch on through the early evening.


Is it okay to feed frozen beans depending on how they were blanched? This
wouldn’t be a big part of the diet, so would it be best to just buy fresh
green beans from the store as opposed to feeding frozen/thawed ones?


Fresh is always better than frozen.



Are the chemical fertilizers anything to worry about?


I would be wary of anything you don’t grow yourself
(without pesticides…chemicals may hurt them)



What can you tell me about feeding alfalfa? Can this become a part of the
regular diet during the summertime, or should it be fed with discretion?


If yours will eat it, I would give it to him. I would
use it as a small portion of the diet, with the majority made up of collards,
mustards, endive, escarole, dandelion, watercress, turnip greens, hibiscus leaves.
Supplement with veggies like snow peas, green beans, squashes, and a little
fruit like berries, melon, mango, papaya. You asked about dandelion…I think
the leaves are the best part, but some flowers can be used.


How many thermometers/hydrometers should I place in the cage? I think at least
three? I would place them and different heights in the cage so that I would
have accurate readings of the temperature and humidity levels in several different
places in the enclosure.


I just use one humidity gauge and one thermometer—and
move it around to check temps. 3 is great if you want though.


Would the wind be a problem, or does it depend on the iguana?


I would definitely keep him out of the draft.



GOOD LUCK! :)






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