Your vet is an idiot. (in my opinion)

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Posted by James on March 21, 2001 at 02:55:54:

In Reply to: mealworms posted by joe on March 20, 2001 at 11:37:05:

But do not take my woard for it, contact the international Iguana Society at 860-236-8203.
or ask David Blair, or Robert Ehrig. There is absolutely no reason to ever feed your Iguana any animal protein. here is a good diet.

Green Iguanas are strictly herbivorous (vegetarian) in diet throughout all stages of their life. Unlike the Green Iguana's close relatives, the omnivorous Spiny-tailed Iguanas (Ctenosaura), who are almost entirely carnivorous as young, the Green Iguana (Iguana iguana) needs only plant matter for proper growth and health both in the wild, and in captivity. Below is a chart that I have formulated for the basic Green Iguana diet. Items marked with an (* ) have worked well for me in the past.

PRIMARY GREENS: 65-70% or more of diet
*Mustard Greens, *Collard Greens, Turnip Greens
*Kale (in moderation), Dandelion Greens, Beet Greens, Parsley, Swiss Chard, Romaine Lettuce, Leaf Lettuce, Escarole, Bok Choy (in moderation),
Spinich (in moderation)

VEGETABLES: 20-25% of diet
*Canned or Frozen mixed vegetables (Peas, carrots, corn, green and lima beans), *Grated Squash, *Grated Carrots, *Grated sweet potato

FRUIT: no more than 5% of total diet
*Canned fruit cocktail, melons, *Grated Apples, *Peaches, *Strawberries, *kiwi, Grapes, *Bananas, Plums, Mango, Papaya, Tomatoes

Note: Avoid feeding your Iguana anything in the cabbage family including: cauliflower, broccoli, brussel sprouts, and cabbage.

CAUTION: Contrary to what you may read in many books, there is absolutely NO reason to feed your Iguana ANY type of animal Protein. That includes: Boiled eggs, Boiled chicken, cat-dog food, insects, and Monkey Chow. Stomach content analysis's from wild iguanas of all ages have, to date, never produced any evidence to suggest that they ever eat any animal protein in any of the stages of their development from hatchling to older adults. While it may not be harmful in very small amounts on rare occasions, Iguanas hind gut digestive systems are not made to utilize animal protein, and it can prove to be fatal in the long run. Basically, you have nothing to gain, and everything to loose.

* Calcium Supplementation: A phosphorous free calcium supplement containing added vitamin D3 is the most important supplement you will need for your iguana. Remember to make sure that it contains no phosphorus, as the actual food they eat contains more than enough phosphorus for the Iguanas health. When Phosphorus is added to the supplement, it makes the 2/1 calcium/phosphorus ratio too high in phosphorus, thus preventing the proper absorption of calcium. A very light sprinkle of calcium supplement can be added to hatchling and juvenile iguana's meals every other feeding, and once a week for adults. A vitamin/mineral supplementation can be added in a similar fashion once a week for hatchlings and juveniles, and every other week for adults. Be careful not to over supplement. When used in excess, it can be more damaging than no supplementation at all. Iguanas that have regular access to natural unfiltered sunlight need little or no vitamin D3 in their calcium.

Follow Ups:

HERE I GO AGAIN . Long one . Travis 03/21/01 (3)
- Hope clears things up for you. James 03/21/01 (2)
  - Reply Travis 03/21/01 (1)
    - one last word James 03/22/01 (0)
I just couldn't help it.... Mr. D 03/21/01 (1)
- I can certainly see the irony James 03/21/01 (0)

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: But do not take my woard for it, contact the international Iguana Society at 860-236-8203. : or ask David Blair, or Robert Ehrig. There is absolutely no reason to ever feed your Iguana any animal protein. here is a good diet. : Green Iguanas are strictly herbivorous (vegetarian) in diet throughout all stages of their life. Unlike the Green Iguana's close relatives, the omnivorous Spiny-tailed Iguanas (Ctenosaura), who are almost entirely carnivorous as young, the Green Iguana (Iguana iguana) needs only plant matter for proper growth and health both in the wild, and in captivity. Below is a chart that I have formulated for the basic Green Iguana diet. Items marked with an (* ) have worked well for me in the past. : PRIMARY GREENS: 65-70% or more of diet : *Mustard Greens, *Collard Greens, Turnip Greens : *Kale (in moderation), Dandelion Greens, Beet Greens, Parsley, Swiss Chard, Romaine Lettuce, Leaf Lettuce, Escarole, Bok Choy (in moderation), : Spinich (in moderation) : VEGETABLES: 20-25% of diet : *Canned or Frozen mixed vegetables (Peas, carrots, corn, green and lima beans), *Grated Squash, *Grated Carrots, *Grated sweet potato : FRUIT: no more than 5% of total diet : *Canned fruit cocktail, melons, *Grated Apples, *Peaches, *Strawberries, *kiwi, Grapes, *Bananas, Plums, Mango, Papaya, Tomatoes : Note: Avoid feeding your Iguana anything in the cabbage family including: cauliflower, broccoli, brussel sprouts, and cabbage. : CAUTION: Contrary to what you may read in many books, there is absolutely NO reason to feed your Iguana ANY type of animal Protein. That includes: Boiled eggs, Boiled chicken, cat-dog food, insects, and Monkey Chow. Stomach content analysis's from wild iguanas of all ages have, to date, never produced any evidence to suggest that they ever eat any animal protein in any of the stages of their development from hatchling to older adults. While it may not be harmful in very small amounts on rare occasions, Iguanas hind gut digestive systems are not made to utilize animal protein, and it can prove to be fatal in the long run. Basically, you have nothing to gain, and everything to loose. : * Calcium Supplementation: A phosphorous free calcium supplement containing added vitamin D3 is the most important supplement you will need for your iguana. Remember to make sure that it contains no phosphorus, as the actual food they eat contains more than enough phosphorus for the Iguanas health. When Phosphorus is added to the supplement, it makes the 2/1 calcium/phosphorus ratio too high in phosphorus, thus preventing the proper absorption of calcium. A very light sprinkle of calcium supplement can be added to hatchling and juvenile iguana's meals every other feeding, and once a week for adults. A vitamin/mineral supplementation can be added in a similar fashion once a week for hatchlings and juveniles, and every other week for adults. Be careful not to over supplement. When used in excess, it can be more damaging than no supplementation at all. Iguanas that have regular access to natural unfiltered sunlight need little or no vitamin D3 in their calcium.

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