Re: Spike won't eat! Any suggestions?

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Posted by james on January 31, 2001 at 01:01:37:

In Reply to: Spike won't eat! Any suggestions? posted by Debbi on January 30, 2001 at 15:00:18:

Debbi, you can never assume that everything is fine in his setup. How long have you had it?
Has it been over a year? or is the first winter you have gone through with the iguana. Is it displaying any other symptoms of illness? Is it possible that it is a gravid female? I could ask questions all day, But it would be better to talk in person. Here is a list that I have composed that may help you. Hope it helps. Otherwise you can call me. James 619-267-2248
Basic Green Iguana Diet

Green Iguanas are strictly herbivorous (vegetarian) in diet throughout all stages of their life. Unlike the Green Iguana's close relatives, the omnivorous Spiny-tailed Iguanas (Ctenosaura), who are almost entirely carnivorous as young, the Green Iguana (Iguana iguana) needs only plant matter for proper growth and health both in the wild, and in captivity. Below is a chart that I have formulated for the basic Green Iguana diet. Items marked with an (* ) have worked well for me in the past.

Primary Greens 65-70% or more of diet

* Mustard Greens * Collard Greens * Turnip Greens
* Kale (in moderation) Dandelion Greens Beet Greens
Parsley Swiss Chard Romaine Lettuce
Leaf Lettuce Escarole Bok Choy (in moderation)
Spinich (in moderation)

Vegetables 20-25% of diet

* Canned or Frozen mixed vegetables (Peas, carrots, corn, green and lima beans)
* Grated Squash * Grated Carrots * Grated sweet potato

Fruit 5% of total diet

* Canned fruit cocktail * Melons * Grated Apples
* Peaches * Strawberries * Kiwi
Grapes * Bananas Plums
Mango Papaya Tomatoes

Note: Avoid feeding your Iguana anything in the cabbage family including: cauliflower, broccoli, brussel sprouts, and cabbage.

CAUTION: Contrary to what you may read in many books, there is absolutely NO reason to feed your Iguana ANY type of animal Protein. That includes: Boiled eggs, Boiled chicken, cat-dog food, insects, and Monkey Chow. Stomach content analysis's from wild iguanas of all ages have, to date, never produced any evidence to suggest that they ever eat any animal protein in any of the stages of their development from hatchling to older adults. While it may not be harmful in very small amounts on rare occasions, Iguanas hind gut digestive systems are not made to utilize animal protein, and it can prove to be fatal in the long run. Basically, you have nothing to gain, and everything to loose.

* Calcium Supplementation: A phosphorous free calcium supplement containing added vitamin D3 is the most important supplement you will need for your iguana. Remember to make sure that it contains no phosphorus, as the actual food they eat contains more than enough phosphorus for the Iguanas health. When Phosphorus is added to the supplement, it makes the 2/1 calcium/phosphorus ratio too high in phosphorus, thus preventing the proper absorption of calcium. A very light sprinkle of calcium supplement can be added to hatchling and juvenile iguana's meals every other feeding, and once a week for adults. A vitamin/mineral supplementation can be added in a similar fashion once a week for hatchlings and juveniles, and every other week for adults. Be careful not to over supplement. When used in excess, it can be more damaging than no supplementation at all. Iguanas that have regular access to natural unfiltered sunlight need little or no vitamin D3 in their calcium.

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: Debbi, you can never assume that everything is fine in his setup. How long have you had it? : Has it been over a year? or is the first winter you have gone through with the iguana. Is it displaying any other symptoms of illness? Is it possible that it is a gravid female? I could ask questions all day, But it would be better to talk in person. Here is a list that I have composed that may help you. Hope it helps. Otherwise you can call me. James 619-267-2248 : Basic Green Iguana Diet : Green Iguanas are strictly herbivorous (vegetarian) in diet throughout all stages of their life. Unlike the Green Iguana's close relatives, the omnivorous Spiny-tailed Iguanas (Ctenosaura), who are almost entirely carnivorous as young, the Green Iguana (Iguana iguana) needs only plant matter for proper growth and health both in the wild, and in captivity. Below is a chart that I have formulated for the basic Green Iguana diet. Items marked with an (* ) have worked well for me in the past. : Primary Greens 65-70% or more of diet : * Mustard Greens * Collard Greens * Turnip Greens : * Kale (in moderation) Dandelion Greens Beet Greens : Parsley Swiss Chard Romaine Lettuce : Leaf Lettuce Escarole Bok Choy (in moderation) : Spinich (in moderation) : : Vegetables 20-25% of diet : * Canned or Frozen mixed vegetables (Peas, carrots, corn, green and lima beans) : * Grated Squash * Grated Carrots * Grated sweet potato : : Fruit 5% of total diet : * Canned fruit cocktail * Melons * Grated Apples : * Peaches * Strawberries * Kiwi : Grapes * Bananas Plums : Mango Papaya Tomatoes : Note: Avoid feeding your Iguana anything in the cabbage family including: cauliflower, broccoli, brussel sprouts, and cabbage. : CAUTION: Contrary to what you may read in many books, there is absolutely NO reason to feed your Iguana ANY type of animal Protein. That includes: Boiled eggs, Boiled chicken, cat-dog food, insects, and Monkey Chow. Stomach content analysis's from wild iguanas of all ages have, to date, never produced any evidence to suggest that they ever eat any animal protein in any of the stages of their development from hatchling to older adults. While it may not be harmful in very small amounts on rare occasions, Iguanas hind gut digestive systems are not made to utilize animal protein, and it can prove to be fatal in the long run. Basically, you have nothing to gain, and everything to loose. : * Calcium Supplementation: A phosphorous free calcium supplement containing added vitamin D3 is the most important supplement you will need for your iguana. Remember to make sure that it contains no phosphorus, as the actual food they eat contains more than enough phosphorus for the Iguanas health. When Phosphorus is added to the supplement, it makes the 2/1 calcium/phosphorus ratio too high in phosphorus, thus preventing the proper absorption of calcium. A very light sprinkle of calcium supplement can be added to hatchling and juvenile iguana's meals every other feeding, and once a week for adults. A vitamin/mineral supplementation can be added in a similar fashion once a week for hatchlings and juveniles, and every other week for adults. Be careful not to over supplement. When used in excess, it can be more damaging than no supplementation at all. Iguanas that have regular access to natural unfiltered sunlight need little or no vitamin D3 in their calcium.

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