Hello everyone!!!(responses to some questions)

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Posted by James Tu on August 19, 2002 at 12:27:02:

Seen some question about breeding, so here is what I do. I have my frilleds at 80-110F with the light on from 5pm till 8am. Then the lights are off during the day. My room probably never drops below 65-70F. I was using two males which worked very well. I since am down to one male and have seen less breeding( it may be the season for me is over). I never did a dry season as many people siad must be done. I also want to warn against using this method with younger frilleds. I had a yearling lay three clutches know, and two off them I had to soak her in warm water everyday because she was becoming egg bound. If I had to do it over I would keep the light on all day for the younger frilleds till I wanted to breed them, but even at that she still may have cycled. NOTE: If your female frill is fat , stops eating and looks like they are trying to poop but can't, soak them in warm water often. This worked very well, and unlike many other she survived. Anyways I have sold over 20 babies and everyone seems to be very happy. I still have about 20 more eating everything and a few more cluthes yet to so. Looks like some of my red phase aussies eggs may be good which is very nice. Anyways my set-up for my adults is 4x4x4 with a few large logs and a couple of wood shelves. two lights one is a 100-160 watt UV depending on the outside temps. I use 1/2 inch of sand in the bottom with a large pile in two corners for egg laying. I think yuo must have good floor space to breed. All my frill breed at the bottom of the cage. Try to feed them downm there, because when they are done my males would bob there heads allot and usually try and mate a female. Some of you have had trouble with animals not feeding well. I'm telling you to try roaches. Every frilled I have, even the picky feeders go nuts over them. Also when trying to breed, give them as much privacy as possible. I tried to kkep the majority of the enclosure covered and only bugged them when it was food and water time.(Once a day) It is very important to pick only one or to lay spots. If you have to much subtrate they will lay and you may never know till its to late. Use one or two coners with sand, dig the corner to the bottom with the sand in a "U" shape around it. they will lay in the corner then cover the eggs. I had the besty luck hatching on perlite. I had some problem with eggs that where to deep in the subtrate. I recommend a light thumb print and then put the egg in. A solid 84F and 65-75 days and then the real fun starts. One last thing, someone posted they bought some sub-adult CB frilled that are not eating. If they are sub-adults there is a very good chance you just bought a frilled that was CB in Indonesia. Teh only people that I know for sure have produced babies this year are me, Dana, and KWE dragons. We all are selling babies that are 4-6 weeks old. Most of the imports come in at 3-4 months old. If you are buying a frilled older than three months, you should do your homework, or you are probably going to get screwed.(This is the darkside of the reptile trade) Anyways I back my babies up 100% and besides one little problem which was solved quickly with my customer changing his set-up have had no problems. Baby frilleds are very easy if you have a good set-up. For your that are not eating, I recommend keeping the temps up misting very often and try several types of food.(ROACHES) Also make sure they feel very secure by covering there tank. They may just be very spooked. Any questions you can email me. I am ery busy with work and all these babies, but will get back to you ASAP. One last thing, if I do not return your email its because you have a computer virus. I ahd several people email me to buy babies, but could not open there emails because they contained viruses. I went thtough this nightmare once and since have bought a very good virus detection program. What a pain in the rear.
James
james.tuttle@afc.com

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