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Posted by EJ on January 23, 2001 at 13:57:08:

In Reply to: Re: Checking my husbandry posted by Terry on January 23, 2001 at 12:59:00:


: .........Marrisa, I know YOU are well aware of my (consistant)disagreement on this issue but...
: Now go back through the posts from the last month (even more) and tell me how many people have had problems with overheating/cooking their pets.Then, look for those that contain 'help, my tortoise is not eating, is slowing down, has developed a runny nose, is sneezing, has watery eyes...' These are usually associated with... what? ummmm, low temps maybe.
: Ed
: (just stressing one of those points that is VERY important to me)..........

: Low temps without a warmer basking area maybe. If I remember correctly, the lower temperature mentioned was 80 , which IS too cool.
: The wrong substrate ,high humidity, incorrect diet and too high temperatures can also cause the tortoise to slow down, develop eye and respiratory problems.

: One thing that's VERY important to me, is that new keepers don't keep their sulcatas in small fish tanks/rubbermaids with temperatures of 100 degrees.
: Before recommending temperatures that high, I think it's best to find out exactly how the tortoise is housed.
: I've never used temperatures that high in an indoor Rubbermaid, closer to 90 in the warm end, max 92-94 with a cooler end of around 75.
: I've never had a problem with any of the above symptoms.The only problems I've had have been caused by the substrate I was using.

: Too high or too low temperatures can equaly cause problems.
: It might not be hot enough to cook the tortoise, but could cause it to become inactive and dehydrated.
: Even my outdoor sulcatas retreat during the warmest part of the day, becoming active in the late afternoon when it's cooler.
: But then they have the space and natural gradients which allow them to do so.
: In a small tank or rubbermaid it's much harder to get the gradient right, and there's no way for the tortoise to escape if it's too hot.





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